No rugs or entry mat– Hardwood floors without any coverings — e.g., rugs — will be worse for the wear. Rugs and doormats protect hardwood floors from dirt, grime, and potential scratches in high traffic areas. A good entry mat is the first line of defense against dirt, gravel, and other outdoor elements that can mar a wood floor.

Using the wrong vacuum attachments-Vacuum attachments can gouge wood floors. To avoid this, use the correct vacuum attachment. If you only have an upright model, be sure to turn off the rotating brush to keep the bristles from scratching your floors.

Wearing shoes-One of the most important — and easiest — ways to take better care of hardwood floors is to stop wearing shoes in the house. Take shoes off at the door. This simple act goes a long way to eliminating virtually all of the tracked-in dirt that can wreak havoc on a wood floor’s finish.

Wearing high heels-Walking on wood with high heels can do similar damage to taking a tiny hammer to wood floors. The force from the heel itself can put dents in hardwood floors. Avoid wearing shoes, but especially high heels on hardwood floors.

Not cleaning up messes-You may find yourself “crying over spilt milk” as the saying goes if you don’t clean up spills on hardwood floors. Leaving liquids on hardwood floors can cause the finish to dull. Immediately wipe up any spills with a soft cloth and make sure the wood is completely dry.

Mopping-Moisture can penetrate the wood’s fibers causing boards to swell, cup, warp, and separate. Don’t mop or use any sort of water to clean hardwood floors. The best strategy is to clean the floor with a mop that’s hardly damp.

Using the wrong cleanser-When washing hardwood floors, the wrong cleaning supplies can be damaging. To know the correct cleaning supplies to use, one must first determine if the flooring is covered with polyurethane or wax. Once you have the answer, either buy wax for wax-coated floors, or use Bona hardwood cleaner to clean polyurethane-coated floors.

1. Tile is TOUGH

The most important thing to know about tile flooring is that it has built in durability and natural resistance to many everyday challenges. It’s made of 100% natural clay and fired in a kiln at over 3000 degrees.

Tile making dates back to the 13th century and today you can still see tile that is centuries old—the best testament to its durability.

The tile you can buy today benefits from technological advances in manufacturing and in the composition of the tile itself.

Besides modern technology, tile retains its natural toughness. It won’t freeze, fade, or crack in cold weather so it’s great for outdoor patios or around the pool. Porcelain tile is impervious to liquids—that means that it doesn’t soak up more than .5% of its weight when submerged in water. So tile is virtually waterproof and stain-proof.

2. Tile is TIMELESS

Tile never goes out of style. Even that 13th century tile in the oldest buildings in Istanbul still inspires designs today that don’t look dated or niche-y. Tile flooring offers unlimited color, texture, and patterns so you have the freedom seamlessly design throughout the home, both inside and out.

Once again, technology has changed the game when it comes to tile style. Specialized machinery gives us the ability to create different kinds of “structure” or touchable surfaces that increase the authenticity of our wood-look tile, and soften the look of our fabric-look tile.

Advanced digital printing process that allows us to emulate the beauty of natural stone or exotic woods on durable tile. It creates some of the best tile in the industry. Even the edges have a tighter grout joint and a more seamless look. Both of these technologies help make tile that looks great year after year, despite the ever-changing trends. Timeless style that you can appreciate for a long time.

Consider yourself informed on two of the most important things to know about porcelain tile. Durability is what has defined the popularity of tile for centuries past. While it will continue to define it into the future, tile is quickly becoming a respected trend-setter that can go on the floors, walls, and countertops. Get the look you want with the durability that has been trusted for ages.

Many homeowners aspire to own solid hardwood flooring for its authenticity, timelessness and durability.

Solid hardwood flooring is constructed with 100% hardwood and each plank is a single solid piece.  It is usually ¾” thick.  It is commonly used in new construction and on or above grade installations.

What is Engineered Hardwood?

Engineered hardwood floors are made up of layers. The top layer is 100% natural wood, which comes in a variety of species. The bottom layer is also wood. In the middle is a core built from 5 to 7 layers of plywood that crisscross in different directions.

Engineered construction creates a highly stable core that is less likely to expand, contract or shift when exposed to moisture, humidity and temperature. This makes engineered wood flooring a great option in rooms that are subject to moisture (like basements) or over concrete slab and radiant heating systems.

How do design options differ between engineered and solid hardwood?

Solid Hardwood: You’ll find a huge selection of solid hardwood to bring to life your personal style and décor, from traditional hardwood to on-trend colors to hand-scraped wood. The widest solid flooring available is 5″, a moderate width that strikes a balance between the extra wide-plank trend and classic looks.

Engineered Hardwood: With a few exceptions, engineered wood flooring is available in a wide range of styles, ranging from traditional to specialty designs with features like multi-tonal colors and handcrafted tool markings. Certain looks, such as extra-wide planks, may only be possible with engineered wood.

Where can I install solid and engineered hardwood floors?

Solid Hardwood: Solid is a great choice for the first and second floors, enhancing living spaces such as living rooms, dining rooms, kitchens and bedrooms.

Engineered Hardwood: Engineered wood is an excellent choice for areas where solid hardwood cannot be installed, like in basements, over concrete floors or over radiant heating systems.

What installation methods are available with engineered and solid hardwood flooring? 

Solid Hardwood: Solid hardwood floors are installed using nails.

Engineered Hardwood: Engineered hardwood flooring has multiple installation options: staple, glue or float.

What’s more durable: solid or engineered hardwood?

Solid Hardwood: Solid hardwood is known for its endurance. Because it is solid through and through, it can be sanded and refinished multiple times during a lifetime. And solid construction holds up well over time. Solid hardwood durability mostly comes down to the wood species and wear-resistance of its protective finish. Harder woods such as Hickory and Oak are more dent resistant, and those with more resilient finishes- such as aluminum oxide nanoparticles — will perform best against scratches..

Engineered Hardwood: Engineered wood can be sanded and refinished several times throughout the life of the floor. If your durability concerns are around moisture, humidity or temperature, engineered is the way to go. Its layered construction provides stability against environmental changes

What is the thickness of solid hardwood vs. engineered hardwood?

Solid Hardwood: Solid hardwood is traditionally 3/4″ thick, except for parquet-style floors which are thinner.

Engineered Hardwood: At 3/8” to 1/2″, engineered wood is slightly thinner than solid hardwood. Thicker woods are usually available in premium collections. Some engineered floors have a thicker top hardwood layer that allows them to be sanded and refinished several times. Engineered floors can be a good choice if you need a thinner wood for an existing space — for example, to match the height of an adjoining floor or fit kitchen appliances into tight spaces between countertops and floors.

How does the sound underfoot compare?

Solid Hardwood: As might be expected, solid hardwood sounds and feels decidedly solid when you walk on it.

Engineered Hardwood: Sometimes, engineered floors can sound more hollow than solid under-foot, but that can be addressed by stapling down the planks instead of floating them. Premium engineered flooring is usually thick enough to look and sound just like “real hardwood.”

How does the cost of engineered wood flooring compare to solid?

Solid Hardwood: Solid is the gold standard in flooring, and it’s usually the most price-premium board for board. There are, of course, many variables: solid hardwood collections can vary in price depending on the warranty, protective finish and how many finishing processes have been used to achieve a particular look. Distressed and scraped styles or those with unique staining techniques will be on the higher end.

Engineered Hardwood: As a whole, engineered tends to be less expensive than solid hardwood, with the exception of premium collections that have a thicker hardwood top layer, uniquely artistic designs and enhanced durability. High-performance engineered products are also more on par with solid pricing.

Like a frame around a painting: Great grout should enhance the setting of your tile without calling attention to itself. Grout should complement the tile’s color and finish seamlessly. We’ve found, in our line of grouts by Bostik, that these grouts perform better and they come with added value that makes them the grout of choice for Thomas Tile.

Because of their special properties, they are easy to use, quick to install, and no extra work to maintain.

Our patented Quartz-Filled grout beats ceramic-based grouts in virtually any installation or speed, performance, and toughness.
What you’ll find with Quartz:

Blends naturally with all tiles
Consistent color every time
8% pre-consumer recycled material
Pre-mixed and ready to use
No sealing ever
Crack resistant flexibility
Blockade antimicrobial protection
Water resistant for use in wet areas
Installs 50% faster than cement grout

There is so much to choose from and you can easily get derailed when faced with a huge selection of great tile and innovative vignettes. Here are a few hints at how to best narrow down the choices.

Pretty Tile- First and foremost when picking tile you have to like it. It has to be pretty. Consider wood look tile or stone look tile for the bathroom. There’s a high demand for durability in the bathroom and a faux look offers “the look of the real McCoy without the maintenance of the real McCoy.” You can get creative with faux types of materials in a way you can’t with the materials they represent. It offers a solution for rooms like the bathroom.

Coordination- Secondly, your tile has to complement the things that you’ve already selected for the home. Every design has to have some continuity. If you’re crazy about that cherry red penny round tile, but the rest of the house is a traditional look in beige, you may want to rethink your bathroom tile choice.
Go neutral with elements that are more permanent and add bold and bright in the details. It stays true to the general color scheme and feel of the house but adds a touch of luxury and the details add a pop of interest in a small space. It acts as a stand-out feature of the home but doesn’t stand alone.

Durability- Thirdly, tile has to be durable, stain resistant, and it has to be long-lasting. You want materials that are timeless, will be around for a while, and won’t run the risk of being unappreciated in a few years.

Stay on target for bathroom tile you’ll love with these three simple tips from a pro. Visit the Thomas Tile and Carpet showroom to experience our selection of bathroom tile for yourself.

Accentuate the Positive

Go with Black Tile and White Grout

Create a Random Pattern

Vacuum high traffic areas daily, and everywhere according to a vacuuming schedule, using a Seal of Approval-certified vacuum.
• Clean spots and spills quickly with products that do not damage the carpet or cause it to resoil quicker.
• Professionally deep clean your carpets every 12 to 18 months to remove embedded dirt and grime.
• Stop dirt at the door by using mats outside and in, taking your shoes off when you enter the house and changing your air filters to reduce airborne dust particles.
• Preventative Maintenance Protect your investment before problems occur. Carpet cleaning is just like exercise! If you get into a routine and keep it up, you will see great results and feel better for it. Products that rate highly on CRI’s Seal of Approval (SOA) program are your assurance that you will clean correctly the first time (more on the SOA program below). Here are four simple steps to keep your carpet clean and looking great:
The Seal of Approval Program
CRI wants vacuums, extractors, cleaning systems and cleaning products to be as effective as possible. The Seal of Approval program is the only one in the industry that scientifically measures cleaning efficacy. The results help consumers make informed decisions, and manufacturers improve their products. So carpets are cleaner, healthier and last longer. Find out more about the Seal of Approval program.
Basic Rug Care
Rugs deserve the same care as wall-to-wall carpet and, in some cases, require special attention.
• Washing rugs — If your rug is small and the label says “machine washable,” shake the rug outside first and then put it in the washing machine at the recommended temperature. Use warm water (90 to 105 degrees) and a mild detergent. Tumble your rug dry at the lowest heat setting.
• Beating larger rugs — If your larger rug is easy to pick up, shake it outside first; then put it over a clothesline and beat it. Next, take the rug inside and vacuum it. Many carpet cleaning professionals have rug cleaning expertise as well, but, if the label says dry clean only, your best bet may be to roll it up and take it to a dry cleaner. Save time and aggravation by calling first to see if the cleaner does rug cleaning — many do not.
• Vacuuming area rugs — Area rugs with fringe require special technique. Use gentle suction and start from the center of the carpet, vacuuming toward the fringe and being careful not to catch the strands in the beater bar. Lift the carpet edge to vacuum beneath the fringe.
• Caring for Oriental, Turkish or Persian rugs — Clean imported rugs according to your carpet manufacturer’s specifications or bring in a professional cleaning service. Be gentle with fringe. For heirloom-type rugs, you need professionals.
Vacuuming.Keep carpet clean through regular vacuuming, the single most effective way to keep carpets clean. Proper vacuuming is the easiest and most effective way to keep your carpet clean. Regular vacuuming can also have the largest impact on the air you breathe.

To get the most out of your vacuuming regime, remember these few easy tips:
• A quick once-over doesn’t do much. Slow and steady does the trick.
• When vacuuming, don’t ignore those corners and crevices where dust builds.
• “Top-down” cleaning saves you the step of vacuuming again after dusting. Dust blinds, windowsills, and furniture surfaces first and then vacuum away any fallen dust.
• Remember to replace or empty vacuum bags when they are half to two-thirds full.

How Often Should You Vacuum?
As a rule of thumb, you should vacuum at least once a week with a quality vacuum cleaner. However, the more foot traffic over your carpet, the more you need to vacuum. The general formula is:
• Vacuum daily in high-traffic or pet areas.
• Vacuum twice weekly in medium-traffic areas.
Vacuum weekly in light-traffic areas, using attachments at carpet edges.
• Professional Cleaning Have carpets cleaned professionally, a periodic must.
• Spot and Stain Removal Remember to use CRI Seal of Approval products.
A Two-Step Solution
With today’s stain-resistant carpet, treating spots and stains has never been easier. Still, no carpet is completely stain proof. The key is to act quickly! So, to knock out spots, give them a one-two punch.
Step One: Absorb the Spill
• Blot liquids with a dry, white absorbent cloth or plain white paper towels (no prints or colors). Using a printed or colored material may transfer ink or dye to your damp carpet. Continue until the area is barely damp. Semisolids, like food spills, may need to be scooped up with a spoon. Solid, dried bits can be vacuumed up.
• Warning: do not scrub or use a brush. Bristles and scrubbing can damage carpet. Fraying and texture change are the likely results.
Step Two: Treat the Spot or Stain
• Use a CRI Certified Seal of Approval carpet cleaning product. Though these have been laboratory tested, you should still pretest any cleaner on a scrap of carpet or in an out-of-the-way area of your carpet.
• Follow the product’s directions carefully. More is not better. Apply a small amount of the cleaner to a white cloth and work in gently, from the edges to the center. Blot; don’t scrub. You may need to do this several times to remove the spot. After the spot is gone, blot the area with clear water once or more to remove any remaining product.
What if you don’t have a CRI-approved carpet cleaner handy? Try one of the remedies from our spot solver.
Special Tips for Pet Owners
Do you have a pet? You can combat pet odors and stains in many ways:
• Vacuum carpet more frequently to capture pet hair and dander from your pet’s fur.
• Use CRI Certified Seal of Approval cleaning products that are specifically designed for pet stains and odors.
• Clean up new messes promptly and then follow the steps for spot and stain removal.
• Use small hand extractors for quick cleanups of pet accidents, but remember that these quick clean ups don’t take the place of periodic deep cleaning.
• Have your carpet professionally cleaned every 12 to 18 months More frequently if necessary.
• Don’t use a steam cleaner when dealing with urine spots because the heat will set the stain and the smell. Extracting the spill with a wet-vacuum and rinsing with cool water will reduce the odor. If necessary, call in certified carpet cleaning firms that know how to remove pet stains and odors permanently.

Area rugs are a key design element in many beautiful spaces. One great thing about custom area rugs is that they can be made exactly the size you need—whether it’s a rug that fills an entire room, stopping 12 inches from the walls, for example, or a rug that defines a dining or conversation area within a larger space.

There’s no standard rule for how big an area rug should be, though there are some considerations to keep in mind. The ideal size of the rug will be driven by the furniture arrangement in the room. In the case where a rug goes under a dining table and chairs, the rug should extend beyond the edge of the table at least 32 to 36 inches. This will ensure that all four legs of the dining chairs stay on the rug when people are sitting in the chairs.

Sometimes it’s unavoidable that a piece of furniture will have two legs on an area rug and two legs off. Keep in mind in this case that if the rug has a thick pile, you might need to put something under two of the legs to make the piece of furniture level. Also, remember that all area rugs should have a good pad underneath them to prevent people from slipping and also to prevent excessive wear on the rug.

1) Non-Skid Padding is a great backing option that protects from abrasion, extends the life and stability of the rug and also serves the purpose of keeping the rug in place (indoor use only). 2) Outdoor friendly cushion helps offer more comfort to walk on as well as extends the life and stability of the rug. 3) Felt Backing protects a wood floor from abrasion (indoor use only). All 3 options are also great for hiding any fabrication on the back of the rug.